- 46) SANTA MARIA DI LEUCA, DE FINIBUS TERRAE (2)

- 46) santa maria di leuca, de finibus terrae (2)

Santa Maria di Leuca (Lèviche in Salento dialect) is a hamlet of 1.062 inhabitants and it belongs to Castrignano del Capo, in the province of Lecce. Santa Maria di Leuca is renowned tourist place and the most southern offshoot among ideal summits of Salento, together with Taranto and Pilone. It is the most southern residential area of the whole province and it is far 69 km from its main city, easily reachable by the state highway 274 of southern Salento and the state highway 275 of Santa Maria di Leuca.
In the past Santa Maria di Leuca was administratively divided between Gagliano del Capo, for the side where the Sanctuary of Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae is placed, and Castrignano del Capo, for the side included between Punta Ristola and Punta Meliso. The legal dispute between Castrignano del Capo and Gagliano del Capo, ended after 83 years, established that Leuca entirely belongs to Castrignano del Capo.

 

Punta Ristola

To be more precise, Santa Maria di Leuca refers to the area above the promontory where there are the Cathedral and the lighthouse (which is one of the most important lighthouse in Italy, with its height of 48,60 m and position at 102 m above sea level), while Marina of Leuca is placed beneath and it is included between Punta Meliso, placed at the foot of the promontory, and Punta Ristola, extreme southern tip of Salento.

Although Punta Ristola in the extreme hell of Italian Peninsula from a geographical point of view, Punta Meliso (probably for its importance due to the lighthouse standing over) is conventionally considered, together with Punta Alice in Calabria, one of the two extremities of the Gulf of Taranto.

According to a nautical convention, Punta Meliso is considered the division point between the Adriatic coast (East) and the Ionian coast (West). However,  it concerns dummy simplifications, that consider a specific parallel as dividing line between Adriatic Sea and Ionian Sea: that is the parallel  39°47'N (which passes off Punta Meliso); but another nautical convention, for example, uses the parallel 40°N.

Actually, the official border, as well as from a natural and historic point of view, between the two Seas is the Otranto Channel, that is the sea strait between the most Eastern point of Italy (Punta Palascia) and Capo Linguetta in Albania.

But, beyond conventions, the fact that sometimes from Santa  Maria di Leuca a longitudinal dividing line is visible under specific conditions and well observable from a chromatic point of view (in reality due to the mix between Taranto Gulf currents and Otranto Channel ones), from time immemorial it has evoked to popular fantasy a real border between the two Seas.

Since October 2006 the Santa Maria di Leuca territory is part of “Costa Otranto - Santa Maria di Leuca Park and Tricase Wood” natural park, established by Apulia Region in order to safeguard Salento eastern coast, rich in precious architectural beauties and important animal and vegetable species. Just outside Punta Ristola, 85 meters below sea level, lies the hull of the Italian oceanic submarine Pietro Micca, sunk during the Second World War with its crew of 58 sailors.

According to a legend, Santa Maria di Leuca (or maybe Porto Badisco) would have been the first landing place of Aeneas. Later the Apostle Peter would be arrived here, who, coming from Palestina, began his evangelizing work, up to arrive at Rome where he founded the Church. It was at that time that Leuca took its full name of "Santa Maria di Leuca"[ no source]. Saint Peter’s passage is also celebrated by the Corinthian column of the year 1694, raised on the Cathedral square, recently renovated.

A stairway with 284 steps links the Cathedral to the underlying harbor, running along the Apulia Aqueduct which, ending in Leuca, flows into the sea: its construction started in 1906, but was interrupted by First World War outbreak and resumed only after its conclusion. So the Apulia Aqueduct arrived in Leuca in 1939, when the work was completed. The monumental stairway and the Roman column, that marks the end, were sent by Benito Mussolini from Rome.

 

The climate

Leuca enjoys a Mediterranean temperate climate, even more mitigate by sea presence. Winters are cool with average temperatures around 10°C. Rainfalls are to a greater extent in October and March, when the north wind is often present. Snowfalls are very rare (the last one was in 2001), whereas storms are more frequent in December. In summer the temperature considerably raises until reaching 35-37 °C with high humidity levels, also because of sirocco wind.

In Leuca there is one of the several headquarters of Italian Air Force, which daily forecasts the weather.

The nineteenth-century villas

Leuca is a tourist place especially famous for the nineteenth-century villas, built according to various styles in the majority by the Architects Ruggeri and Rossi.

At the end of the XIX century there were exactly 43 villas, many of which now are disused or look deeply transformed in comparison with past.
In fact, during the II World War, metal decorative elements were taken away from many villas (balustrades, railings, etc.), for the production of weapons. Moreover, in the same period almost all villas were requisitioned from owners and used for accommodating evacuated people. Some villas suffered serious damages and, at the end of the war, were renovated in a such radical way to be ruined. Other villas fell in disuse, whereas only some of them still keep the original look, both outside and inside.
Among the best preserved villas and characterizing the place, there are:

•    Villa Daniele
•    Villa Fuortes "sede Pro Loco"
•    Villa Mellacqua
•    Villa La Meridiana
•    Villa Tamborino
•    Villa Loreta Stefanachi
•    Villa Episcopo
•    Villa Colosso
•    Villa Arditi
•    Villa De Francesco
•    Villa Seracca
Despite the different architectural features, in every villa the existing elements were:

•    A park in the frontward of the villa
•    A garden in the rearward of the villa, that was used for vegetable and fruit growing
•    A private chapel with a Virgin Mary’s picture

•    A well for keeping drinking water
•    A stable for horses and a garage for carriages
Following the several renovations, in the most of the time all these elements have been transformed in such way to be actually quite or completely unrecognisable.
One characteristic of some of these dwellings (especially those overlooking the seafront ) was, moreover, to have “cabins” on the cliff, some of these made of stone others made of wood, called “bagnarole”, which allowed to ladies going swimming in summer to hide away from people’s prying eyes. Each “bagnarola” belonged to a villa and it had the same style or, above all, colours.
Now “bagnarole” made of wood have been totally removed, whereas among those made by stone there are only a pair, but they are disused.
Villa Episcopo

Villa Episcopo is placed on a parallel street of Leuca seafront, and is different from the other buildings for its Chinese style which make it look a pagoda. Initially coverings and entrance small columns were red, but now they are blue.

Villa Mellacqua

Villa Mellacqua is one of the most striking villas of Leuca, because of its shape and red colour. It is square shaped with four small towers on the corners.
 

The caves

Caves of Rada

•    Devil Cave – “Devil” Cave is at Punta Ristola, it measures forty meters in length and seventeen meters in breadth and it leads directly to the sea. In 1871, Ulderico Botti did the first excavations, discovering  interesting and unique finds, consisting of bones, valvs, weapons and tools, that make plausible the hypothesis of the existence of living beings in the cave since Neolithic period. These finds are now preserved in Lecce and Maglie museums. The cave’s name derives from an ancient popular belief, which attributed to evil spirits’ presence gloomy and powerful rumbles which could be heard in the cave. Moreover, it is accessible by land throughout an opening on its back.

•    Porcinara Cave – The so-called “Porcinara” or “Portinaia” cave is set close to Punta Ristola. It has a notable historical importance, since in that zone archaeologists discovered a double-curtain wall building. It is about 20 meters above sea level and its name is presumed to derive from a distortion of the term “Portinara”, that maybe refers to its position close to the harbor. The cave has been excavated in three spaces, on the walls there are some engravings in honour of Zeus, boat names and mythological characters’ names such as Madaraus, Rhedon and Aphrodite.

•    Morigio Cave – It is placed below the point where the Monumental Waterfall of Apulia Aqueduct ends in the sea. The term “Morigio” was given by Tasselli, because it seems that the Moors hid here in order to attack and destroy Leuca. Also called “Lovers Cave”, it is accessible only by sea and by swimming under water for a stretch.

•    Cazzafri Caves – The name comes from Greek and, according to Tasselli, would mean “ foam house”. There are three caves, they face the west roadstead and especially at sunset they offer striking plays of light.
West Caves

•    River Cave or Sparascenti – Crossing Punta Ristola, by sea and only when the sea is calm, it is possible to gain access to this cave. It is characterized by rests of a Karstic activity, leaving as heredity a rivulet of fresh water that flows into salt water.
•    Nativity scene Cave – This cave name derives from wonderful calcareous sculptures and stalactites of astonishing beauty, that evoke features of Nativity scene.
•    Three Doors Cave – The name refers to the monumental entrance with 3 accesses, which seems stand out the sea as the passage towards an other world. It is possible to enter by boat, appreciating its coolness and striking plays of light.

•    Child ‘s Cave – Cave of extraordinary natural value: here, among others, the remains of an elephant, a rhinoceros and a human tooth were found, which date back to Neanderthal age. It is possible to enter by Three Doors Cave.

•    Giants’ Cave – This cave is so called according to the legend that here the Giants killed by Lybian Hercules are buried. It is of great paleontological interest, since here numerous remains of artifacts, dating back to Middle Paleolithic, have been found.

•    Stable Cave – One of the most beautiful caves of the entire coast, it probably takes its name from the fact that usually it was used as refuge by fishermen in a spot.

•    Dragon’s Cave – It is deep about 60 meters, of low scientific value but very spectacular, since there is an emerging rock looking like a dragon’s head.

East Caves

•    Terradico’s Caves  – Also called “Terradico’s Ears” or Indian people’s cave, it is famous for its triangular shape, evoking indeed a tent. Actually it is not a single cave, but a compound of 3 caves, of various size, that develop in subsequent way.
•     Ortocupo’s Cave – Semi-submerged, it is possible to access only by undersea way. The most internal part is also called “Cave of breath”, because of water spurts that are here. It is interesting to note that in this point freshwater and salt water converge and it is also possible to found sea basses.

•     Holes Cave – System of two caves of different size, where it is possible to access beyond 60 meters when sea is calm. The name derives from a hole (vora in dialect) on the upper part of the cave’s vault, at about 50 meters in height.
•    Crows Cave – The name is due to presence of crows (giole or ciole in dialect) and it is also called Mouth of Well or Big Cave of Ciolo. It develops in about 120 meters in length and has numerous air chambers inside. This cave is important from a paleontological point of view for the presence of a Pleistocene vein, as well as for the presence of a pool covered by incredibly cool waters.
Leaving Leuca towards Gagliano del Capo it is possible to find other caves, in a scattered order, such as caves of Capeddhe, Musconovo, Totola until arriving to the striking big cave of the Ciolo, nearby of the same name inlet.

Churches
"De Finibus Terrae" Basilica (or Sanctuary)

The virtual date, which got off the Christian cult on the Iapygian promontory in the current Basilica of Leuca is around St. Peter’s age. It passes down that St. Peter, on the road to Rome, stopped over Leuca and since that time the temple dedicated to goddess Minerva, placed on the Iapygian promontory, became a Christian cult place. The adoration by devoted people to Virgin Mary of Leuca has ancient origins: on the 13th of April 365 some fishermen would have been saved miraculously from a storm. The Church with the current fortified structure was built between 1720 and 1755 by Monsignor Giovanni Giannelli, in order to resist numerous and continuous attacks by Turkish and Saracen invaders. The interior of the Sanctuary has only one nave and on the high altar it is possible to admire the Virgin Mary with Baby Jesus painting(Madonna De Finibus Terrae) by Jacopo Palma Junior. There are also six altars, placed at the nave’s sides, an organ recently restored and dated 1885 and numerous paintings, among which those made by the painter Francesco Saverio Mercaldi (St Francesco da Paola, dated 1898 and The Confession Triptych). Since the 7th of October 1990 the Sanctuary was elected as minor Basilica and number of visitors and devoted people has noticeably increased. In 2000, celebration of the holy year, important restoration works have been made and the old main doors were substituted by bronze ones, made by the sculptor Armando Marrocco. The three doors names are: Janua Coeli (central) – Exodus (right) – Stella Maris (left). In the same year the Sanctuary’s compound enlarged a wide room for conferences and a museum that currently hosts important contemporary artists’ works. Inside the Church, on the right side of the entrance, there is a big monolithic boulder, the Altar to Minerva, testimony of the old cult for the goddess Minerva. At the entrance, on the left side, there is a bronze plaque in commemoration of crew of the French cruiser Léon Gambetta, sank offing Leuca in the night of the 26th of April 1915 with about 700 men. On the square in front of the Basilica, facing the coast of the town, there is the monumental Cross, erected on the 21st of October 1901, in occasion of the holy year. It has four inscriptions on the sides of construction. On the boulevard that leads to the Basilica, among the trees of the pinewood, there is the Peter’s Cross, built as testimony of St Peter’s passage. Finally, there is the very famous  stairway of the monumental waterfall. It concerns of two flight of stairs, each of 300 steps, which link the Sanctuary to the old port. They were built during the Fascism, in occasion of the completing  works of the Aqueduct. The two stairways are separated by an artificial waterfall, opened only for special occasions. At the foot of stairs the Roman column of 1939 rises.

King Christ Church
It is in the centre of Marina of Leuca. Building works started in 1896 on project by Engineer Pasquale Ruggeri; however, the opening to devoted people and public was only 40 years later, that is in 1935. Realized in calcareous tuff (called carparo), the Church is in Romanesque and Gothic style. The internal part is divided in three naves. The mosaic floor, completed in 1934, is very beautiful, as well as the rose window of the main front. The big windows of lateral naves have names and emblems of the noble families that took part to the construction of the Church.

Popes’ visits to Leuca
The visit of the Pope Benedict XVI to the Sanctuary "De Finibus Terrae"
In the history there were several visits by Popes to Santa Maria di Leuca. In the year 343 Pope Giulio I (337-352) went in Leuca for consecrating the Sanctuary; the event is remembered by a commemorative stone on the entrance of the Basilica.
In the year 710 Pope Constantine (708-715) passed from Santa Maria di Leuca after the stop in Otranto.
On the 14th of June 2008, on the square in front of the Basilica, Pope Benedict XVI celebrated the Mass, landing by helicopter at Punta Ristola and arriving at the Sanctuary “de Finibus Terrae”.

Leuca lighthouse
Santa Maria di Leuca lighthouse is the Corinthian column on the square of Basilica and it is placed on Punta Meliso. It was projected by the Engineer Achille Rossi and was activated in 1866 by the civil engineering department by a machine with fixed light varied in splendors of 30 cm in 30 seconds. It is tall 48,60 m and it is 102 m above sea level. It emits three light beams visible, in particular weather conditions, beyond 40 km. By a spiral staircase of 254 steps it is possible to climb on the cage of the projection apparatus. In 1937 the light house’s power source, that until that moment was in petroleum, was transformed in electricity. The original lantern was built in Paris and substituted several times (1941 e 1954) together with the rotator apparatus. Currently the watchman of the light house is Antonio Maggio, who started his job as the youngest of lighthouse men. Earlier the lighthouse was under custody of Francesco Ferrari, who was the watchman from 1971 until 1996.
Local Traditions
On 15th August of every year the Virgin Mary of Santa Maria di Leuca is commemorated. The Virgin Mary’s statue, after being moved from the Sanctuary to the King Christ Church during the event called “intorciata” on the day before, is brought in procession all around the village in presence of the Bishop as well as civilian and military authorities, until arriving at the port. Here the statue is taken on board a fisherman trawler, earlier drawn lots and adorned for the occasion, and it is followed in procession by all other trawlers and hundred private boats. Arrived nearby San Gregorio Marina, again by sea the statue goes back to Leuca, where it is placed in the King Christ Church and then moved to the Sanctuary again. The celebration ends at about midnight with fireworks. Devotion to the Virgin Mary of Leuca is due to the fact that She is considered the patron of fishermen on the basis of an event happened in the XVI century. In effect it is told that a terrible storm put in danger boats of fishermen and Leuca itself, and thanks to intercession by Virgin Mary fishermen and inhabitants of Leuca obtained the end of the storm and salvation of boats. Every year, usually one Sunday in May, set from time to time, an event called "Ville in festa" takes place. During this day the nineteenth-century villas are open to the public and the architectural-historic features are illustrated to visitors. The guided tour includes inside each villa tasting of wine and food specialties or exhibition of flower-plant arrangements. Access to villas, free of charge, is regulated by owners, who decide to open to visits only gardens or even the interior.



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Torneo carnevale di Gallipoli - Coppa Santa Maria di Leuca
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